Where Stefan Cel Mare got married?

Another great, beautiful Sunday we made a choice to visit one monastery of two pretty known ones - either Saharna or Tipova, with hope for second one as we heard the plot that's where Stefan Cel Mare (quite an important figure in Moldova ;) got married. 

Going to the Gara de Nord where buses to Rezina (closest bigger city) leave, we still din't know where we're going as we couldn't find any specific information on this trips in the internet. But in Moldova it's never the problem, it was enough to come to the station and ask a driver going to Rezina and we got the whole quick guide on how to get there and what is worth to see. 

So we found out that in case of both monasteries we would have to get off the bus before it comes to Rezina and there walk or try to catch another bus further. To Saharna it is 7 km from the main road and there are some buses from Rezina, with Tipova is more complicated, 16 km and no buses. You can of course hitchhike there but as it was 10 of us and in the evening we had to be back in Chisinau, so it seemed to hard to make it. Finally we decided to go to Saharna, the one that driver recommended and the one that my Polish friend who had been there before called "Disneyland" referring to how colorful it is and it wasn't too positive opinion. 

People in Moldova often have differerent opinion on what could interest tourists then we - tourists have, most of them are surprised that we enjoy visiting Transnistria saying that there is nothing interesting there and not understanding that it is interesting per se as unrecognized country. They would recommend us some touristic sights, but anyone that traveled in western Europe won't find it exciting as just they are not too impressive. I would be so much more interested in monasteries in caves, but the driver thought it's ugly and not very touristic. Moldovan people have no idea how to promote their country as an attractive tourist destination, which it really is, only when you find here right places and promote it to specific people, opened to new impressions. 

So we got to bus to Rezina (around 2 hours, 50 lei one-way ticket) but the driver was so nice he offered us a ride directly to Saharna monastery for 10 lei each more, so we didn't have to wait or walk for 7 km. 

What you first see getting of the bus - a chapel on the hill

In Saharna there are 2 churches, one more in progress and they really are very colorful and in good condition, seems like just renovated. It was Sunday so we've seen a lot of people walking around, praying etc. But Saharna fortunately has much more to offer. Further you can find some caves where monks used to live, people come there and pray, leaving small pieces of paper where their prayer is written. You can also go to holy spring and get into it to get a blessing. While we've been there few people tried it and the water seemed pretty cold. Quite a common thing was to put children inside for 3 times (just like durng baptism), sometimes it didn't look too nice, as the water was cold and they were screaming or "defending" themselves, but none of it worked and they went to water anyway, it seems like an important thing to be. 

The gate to monasteries area

Colorful indeed

Holy water

Cave monastery

 

 

 

 

Former monk's "bedroom" with the prayers on pieces of paper

Monasteries are a bit in the valley, you can go up to the hills around  with crosses on every of them, you can also find there a monument od Dacians and a small chapel. But the most interesting part is that when you hike a bit in the forest you can find a really beautiful waterfall, not too high maybe, but still it was very impressive. 
 

Small bridge on the hiking path

Most impressive part of Saharna trip

 

 

On the way to the chapel

Before leaving we had a chance to eat something, it was really special experience, in the monk's cantine full of icons, after a prayer at the begining (one local friend was with us so he knew what is it all about), in silence we ate some soup and potatoes. Anyone can to this, you just have to ask the monks of this possibility. They don't demand any payment, but we left some money as the contribution. 

Our dining room

On the way back it seemed to be no bus to Rezina, so we decided to walk, but we were lucky and one was going where we were like almost in half way. Then we took the bus to Chisinau and our day trip ended, again with this fulfilling impression that we know Moldova better and better. So where next? :D

 

Gagauzian wine

After seeing something on north the time came to move  bit south, what means - to GAGAUZIA. 

Once in library the woman told me that Gagauzia is where "real Moldovans" live and their hospitality is enormous. Most of inhabitans other parts of Moldova probably wouldn't agree with this statement, but for me it was enough to get excited. 

Our group was 6 people and we decided to spend a night in Comrat, the capital of Gagauzia. We knew only one guy there, a volunteer like we, but unfortunately this weekend he wasn't at home. Despite that he said that the old woman he lives with will be happy to host us, of course totally for free, she didn't want to take money from us. Sounds like first sign of the great hospitality to me ;) 

In good mood we get in the afternoon to Gara de Sud and caught minibus to Comrat. It already seemed like a different world, everyone was talking only in Russian and the driver didn't know the word in Romanian, what was pretty surprising as almost everyone in Moldova is billingual, at least to some extend. 

The journey takes about 2,5 hour and the ticket is 50 lei. 

Center of Comrat

When we arrived, we saw a small town like every in Moldova, rather ugly buildings, market, few cafes or bars (including one with very creepy look). We drunk a coffee and started looking for our host's place what wasn't difficult at all, as the town is incrediblly small. 

The creepy bar

Our host - Anna welcomed us with a warm smile and showed our place to sleep, amazing one, as we had separate house in our disposal! Everything in Moldovan style, with carpets on the wall and so on and later, when we went to the city she brought us fresh bed sheets and made a fire in the stove so we wouldn't be cold. Amazing person! Including also interesting conversations till 1 am and constant attempts to feed us make her the best host ever! And of course we got invitation to come once again and bring our friends, because she really like meeting people. Somebody interested? :D 

Cute houses and gardens

The Saturday evening we just wandered around to eventually stay at one terrace we found nice and drink some gaguzian wine. The woman in bar had only Moldovan one, but it wasn't a problem - "There is a shop on the edge, go and buy yourself whatever you want" - she said. "But can we drink it here?"  - "Of course, what's the problem?!". Ooo, famous gagauzian hospitality :D 

Comrat city - little proof that we're not in the province ;)

The second day we just walked around again, visited the Lenin's monument, on Lenin's street and come across a demonstration against Moldova's government. Gagauzia is the autonomy, they are mostly very pro-Russian and last February the was a referendum where more than 90% of voters were in favour of closer ties with Russia instead of EU. During the protest they mentioned the referendum many times, but the all thing was very peaceful and for me it was a good example of local democracy. It was quite a crowd there, more people than on any demonstration in Chisinau. That's good, even if I couldn't agree with what they say. 

Demonstration where they warned people of western provocators ;) Maybe that's us?

Later we went to museum which is really interesting, I recommend that, only that someone has to speak Russian :/ For only 5 lei from the group you can have a guide and thanks to this woman you will get to know everything you nees about Gagauzian people. I'm very glad we went there, it was very informative and I felt being much wiser when going out :D 

Lenin - must-see, only that fresh flowers are a bit disturbing...

As a souvenir we took of course some good wine, there is a shop calles "Vina Komrata" which sells wine in plastic bottles, 12 lei/litr. Amazing price and pretty good staff they have. Must-visit in the city :D


Thanks to our host and good, cheap wine this trip was very good and I start to understand that travelling in Moldova is not chasing touristic sights (which aren't that many) but simply relaxing, meeting people and enjoying your time. Like in the life itself... Moldova already taught me a lesson. Thanks for that! 

The end of Comrat... just like the end of our trip.